Madeira

10 and 11/11/16 

We arrived in Funchal, the capital of Madeira, early on Thursday morning. Being volcanic, the land rises steeply up from the sea and the city climbs up the hill. It was a beautiful sight in the early morning light and the sea was calm and blue. From the ship we could also see some of the volcanic rock formations, a sea cliff, some lovely nearby gardens and the garish flashing light advertising the casino.

First up was a tour of the surrounding area. The roads seem to hang from the side of the mountains or cross high bridges over deep valleys that run down to the sea. Wouldn’t want to live here if you have vertigo! We stopped at a couple of lookouts to take in the views, including Cabo Girao, the highest sea cliff in Europe and second highest in the world, where the horizon seems to curve all around you. There is a small see-through bridge that Dale bravely walked across and has a photo to prove it!!! (Erin, you would have been proud!) Final stop was at a wine lodge where we tasted Madeira wine. The drier ones were quite nice but the sweet ones were rather sickly sweet. Grampy bravely sacrificed himself to taste his own as well as Nannies, as she cannot drink!

In the afternoon we took an optional tour which involved a very high cable car ride up to the small town on Monte. (Dale was being particularly brave today!) There was evidence of fire on the way up, both of the bush and many houses. Apparently they had bad bush fires here this summer, fuelled by many of the “feral eucalypts”. Must be difficult to fight fires on such steep slopes and with such narrow roads. After some time at the top to see the church and the town square we took a toboggan ride part way back to the town. We sat in a wicker basket sled and were driven down by two men in traditional white outfits and straw boaters (On the Street Where You Live, Ian!) It was lots of fun but the scary bit was that the “track” is also a road which is still used by cars! 

The next day we also had almost the full day in Madeira and, being the rather antisocial people that we are, decided to take a much needed break from group tours and head out by ourselves. We walked along the harbour, stopping to watch a rehearsal for the Remembrance Day ceremony. Only army and navy we think, with a small band and some drill. We arrived at Mercado dos Lavradores, an amazing market selling predominantly fish, fresh and dried fruit and vegetables, herbs and spices, nuts and tacky souvenirs. Had a great time wandering around, seeing, hearing, tasting and smelling. 

Then ambled around the old town, ending up at the cathedral which was closed for visiting but open for mass so we duly attended. More ambling bought us to the cool and shady Santa Caterina Gardens with tropical plants, ponds and fountains, seats for rest and contemplation, and lots of really entertaining skinks. Once we sailed at about 5 pm we rounded off the day with a lecture about the Spanish Revolution and dinner outside at the back of the boat (sorry, aft!!), watching Funchal recede.

 

Morning cup of tea in Madeira

View from our boat with Santa Caterina gardens below and burned trees at top

Terraced crops - bananas at this altitude, grapes and potatoes at other altitudes.

Street entertainment

Crazy bridges

Proof!!!

Us going down in the toboggan

Madeira markets

Madeira markets

Santa Caterina gardens

Sunset leaving Madeira