Europe and Cruising 2016: Barcelona

4-8/12/16

We traveled from Toledo to Barcelona, via Madrid, on the AVE train and are now used to the speed at which they travel. Had issues getting the falcata through security so our first task in Barcelona was to the local post office to post it back home rather than risk carrying it in our luggage and having it confiscated. Once again we were impressed with how friendly and helpful most Spanish people are and how much you can communicate despite both people only knowing a couple of words in the other's language.

We then caught the Metro into the city, hopping off a stop early to walk through l’Eixample to look (but not shop!) at the upmarket stores there. Plaça de Catalunya in the city centre was heaving with people, cars, scooters, robust statues and pigeons. La Rambla was fascinating for its history and people watching. We took detours to see Via Sepulcral Romana (an old Roman road lined with tombs excavated and preserved under Plaça Vila de Madrid) and the Mercat de la Boqueria. The market was amazing and sold an amazing array of food. Loved the offal shop selling liver, kidneys, brains, hearts, stomach lining, bull’s testicles and penis right next to the chocolate shop. I ate the most delicious empanadas – 3 different fillings, served on a large skewer – and Gary had mandarin gelati. After café con leche and strolling further along the street, we turned east to head for the Roman walls. Along the way we found the council Christmas decorations in Plaça Sant Jaume – giant snow domes with Christmas scenes inside and a huge Christmas tree, the main Sinagoga, and lots of narrow streets. The walls have obviously had many lives and alterations, with what look like Roman stones at the base, a medieval makeover and some modern intrusions. Around the corner we found the cathedral, admiring it from the outside and then shopping at the Christmas markets on the parvis. So enjoying all these Christmas markets! After catching the Metro home, Gary enjoyed a Barcelona soccer match on TV. When Leo Messi scored a goal the commentator was consumed with rapturous delight. It was hilarious!

On Tuesday (a public holiday for Spanish Constitution Day) we visited the Maritime Museum. There wasn’t much historical stuff, but lots of different types of boats from around the world. There was also an interesting display of old wooden and tin toy boats, and examples of many different ways children could make their own boats. The museum was housed in the old ship yards so the building was interesting too. We then caught a funicular and a cable car up to Montjuic Castle. To enter, we crossed a cute drawbridge over some lovely flower displays in the ditch before reaching the ramparts and big guns designed to blow stuff up. It afforded great views over Barcelona and the Mediterranean. Chillingly, most of the information inside was about the castle’s use as a prison during the Spanish Civil War. That evening we watched (live but on TV) the soccer game between Barcelona FC and Mönchengladbach, being played just over at Camp Nou. We had been seeing supporters in their scarves and footy regalia all day. Fortunately, Barça won 4 – 0 and Messi scored a goal. The commentator was again delighted, “Goal, goal, goal, goal, goal, Messi, Messi, Messi, Messi, Messi!” etc. Puts Norman May to shame.

Wednesday was our Gaudi day. First, we walked to the Basilica la Sagrada Familia and, after circumnavigating the building a couple of times due to a ticket mix up and the fact that the entrance and ticket office are on opposite sides of the building, we entered. It is huge, built in a traditional cathedral shape but with shapes and designs based on nature and no straight lines. Dale loved the colour, stained glass windows and mosaics, and all the different shapes. Gary thought Gaudi was gaudy. Even worse, one statue had a Roman in an officer’s helmet but wearing infantryman lorica segmentata, which apparently was not done! The one redeeming feature was a statue that looked like Ned Kelly (but was really some saint with a square halo!) Next we caught the bus to Park Guell, also designed and decorated by Gaudi. We bought our tickets to the timed entry monument area and went in, planning to eat our picnic lunch and then have a look around. Despite no signage and a heap of other people also not knowing, there is apparently NO EATING in that area, strictly enforced by officious men in fluro vests. We could not leave and re-enter, so had a quick look around. It was very Gaudi, with interesting shapes based on nature, colourful ceramics and no straight lines. However hunger and crowds meant we did not do it justice. Once outside in the main park we still had to locate the designated eating area before we could eat!! After eventually eating lunch, Gary rested in the sun and listened to an audiobook while Dale explored more of the park, which had more paths and structures designed by Gaudi. There was a strong focus on the built environment but not so much on the plants. There was little variety and much of it needed a good weeding. However it was a lovely sunny day, there were great views over Barcelona and hardly any people around once off the main drag. We caught another bus back to the apartment and spent the evening shopping in the local supermarket and strolling around the local area.

Thursday was another public holiday – the Feast of the Immaculate Conception. Every year the Spanish have two public holidays one day apart because neither the Government nor the Catholic Church will change their day! We spent a relaxing morning washing, catching up on the blog and eating delicious bread from the bakery across the road. At lunch time we met up with Marylou from Dale’s Darwin book club and her husband Brian who just happen to be in Barcelona at the end of a six month tour of Europe. It is surreal meeting up with friends on the other side of the world! Had a walk through our neighbourhood of Gracia, then a delicious lunch and book club tea at our apartment. A bit of chatting also happened!!! Was wonderful to catch up.

We have really enjoyed staying in Gracia. It is a little out of the centre of town, having been an independent municipality until it was incorporated into the expanding Barcelona in 1897. However it still retains a distinct character and the feeling of a small town within a city. Local people live here, shop, walk their dogs, socialise in the squares, walk their children to school and greet each other in the street. It has been fun being a part of this, even if only for a few days.